Defense mechanisms

LEOPARD GECKO

                                                                                       

                                                                                       

                                                                                          

Defense mechanisms""

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Leopard geckos have predators, such as snakes, frogs, or foxes and other large reptiles. Their keen sense of hearing and sight help them escape from them during the night. Along with their exceptional sight and hearing abilities, their skin helps camouflage themselves from their predators. Their sense of taste and smell also helps them with survival. The shedding of their skin also removes any scent markers left behind for potential predators to discover. When they feel threatened, startled, or scared, leopard geckos hiss to ward off predators. Also, they stay in underground holes and burrows during the daytime, not only avoid the heat, but to also avoid the risk of getting eaten.^[5]Leopard geckos also have the ability to voluntarily detach their tails if it is attacked, grabbed by the tail, bitten during copulation, or nipped by another during feeding. This is called caudal autotomy. After autotomy the tail can continue to twitch for as long as 30 minutes, allowing the gecko to escape from its predator.^[9] The tail is large and it has been reported that the tail-less fleeing gecko makes for a quicker getaway.^{[citation needed]} Fractures in the tailbone allow the tail to separate easily and rapid vasoconstriction allows the gecko to suffer minimal blood loss. This detaching of the tail causes a high level of stress on the gecko due to the valuable storage of fat it once had is now gone.^[10] It will start to regenerate its tail immediately because it is needed for survival. A lost tail may increase the chance of sickness in the gecko and in some cases kill it, but this is very rare.^[5] Regenerated tails often retain similar colors to the original tail [though there will most likely be a wide variance from the vibrancy and patterns of the original], however they are often smooth and lack the rigid qualities and length of a normal tail. The tail will also be shorter and often fatter than the previous tail.

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REPRODUCTION

LEOPARD GECKO

REPRODUCTION:

They are also known to have temperature-dependent sex determination (TSD). Research shows that more females can be produced in predominantly cool temperatures (about 26–30 °C (79–86 °F)) and very warm temperatures (about 34–35 °C (93–95 °F)). It was recorded that males can be produced at the intermediate temperatures (about 31–33 °C (88–91 °F)). Females born in the higher temperatures differed from those who were born in the lower temperatures hormonally and behaviorally. Those born in the warmer temperatures expressed more aggressive behavior.^[13]These are known as "hot females" and are often determined to be infertile.
Leopard geckos will breed typically in the summer. Females can store sperm over the course of their breeding season, so they can produce up to three clutches from one or two copulations, therefore, the male is not needed for reproductive success after the first or second copulation.^[14] Once the female is pregnant, she will need an abundance of calcium for health and to ensure that the eggs calcify properly. She can lay about six to eight clutches, which consists of two eggs in each clutch. They will normally lay two eggs approximately 21 to 28 days after mating. After 45 to 60 days, droplets of moisture will appear on the shell and the shell will begin to shrink and partially collapse. These are indications that the eggs will hatch. Baby leopard geckos will have an "egg tooth", a calcareous tip at the end of its snout to help break their egg shell. Their "egg tooth" will fall off within one to two days. In addition to this, their skin will usually shed within 24 hours of hatching. The leopard gecko hatchling will not be able to eat until after the first shedding.^[5]

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CHARACTERISTIC

LEOPARD GECKO

Characteristics:

Leopard geckos are large for a gecko. Hatchlings tend to be 6.5 to 8.4 cm (2.6 to 3.3 inches) in length and weighing about 3 grams while the adult geckos are about 20.5 to 27.5 cm (8.1 to 11 inches) in length and weigh about 45 to 65 grams.
Those found in the wild typically have a darker, dull, and drab coloration than those kept in captivity as pets. Those in captivity generally have an assortment of skin colors and patterns. The skin of a leopard gecko is very durable, which provides protection from the rough sand and rocky hills terrain of their dry environment. Their dorsal side is covered with small bumps, which gives a rough texture and appearance while their ventral side is thin, transparent, and smooth. Like all reptiles, leopard geckos shed their skin. In the few days before the shedding, the skin will turn color to a translucent whitish gray.^[6] Adults shed an average of once a month, while juveniles will sometimes shed twice as much.^[7] The gecko will eat its old skin after shedding, revealing a brighter colored one. There are two theories of why leopard geckos do this. One is that in the wild leopard geckos eat their shed skin so there is no trace that the leopard gecko was there.^[6] The other theory is that eating the shed skin is a means for obtaining protein and other vitamins for growth.^[7]the day as they are sleeping, so they can hunt and digest food at night. In addition, they have short legs, which enable them to be quick and agile while their small nails allow them to climb twigs and rocks. Leopard geckos have openings on either side of their head as ears. A tympanic membrane covers and protects it. They use their ears to locate their prey. Healthy leopard geckos have thick, fleshy tails; a thin tail is an indication that the gecko is not healthy and may be lacking nutrition. Although, when in captivity, the tail can be fattened by the feeding of waxworms (wax moth larvae), these worms are typically too fatty for the gecko to get the nutritional value it needs. They can also be fed "pinkys", a one day old mouse to fatten up the tail, but again, these are very low in nutritional value.^[8] Breeders recommend coating crickets in a nutritional powder before serving them either live or dead. Leopard geckos' thick tails can regenerate when lost; however, the regenerated tails appear stumpy and never have the same appearance as the original tail.^[5]

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HABITAT

leopard gecko

habitat: 

A single leopard gecko should be kept in a screen-lidded lizard terrarium no smaller than 10 gallons, and 5 gallons should be added for each additional gecko kept in the same habitat. It's okay to house two or three leopard geckos together, though no more than one male should be kept in the same space. (They tend to fight over territory.)
Be sure to give each leopard gecko two or three rocks or pieces of wood that can be used as hiding spots. Though the terrarium should generally be kept dry, add a layer of peat moss to one hiding place and mist it daily to provide a moist refuge.
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Maintain a daytime temperature between 75-85º F (24-29º C) and a nighttime temperature between 65-75º F (18-24º C), using an under-tank heater if necessary. If you do use a heater, get a thermometer for both the warm end and cool end of the terrarium to be certain that the entire habitat stays within the recommended temperature range.
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Line your leopard gecko's home with reptile carpet until it measures 6 inches or longer. When the lizard reaches adulthood (longer than 6 inches), line the terrarium with a 2- or 3-inch layer of calcium sand. Maintain a clean habitat by removing waste weekly and changing bedding at least once each month.

HIDING PLACES

TEMPERATURES

BEDDING

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